1. All the
flowering trees and shrubs as well as evergreens that we deliver
to our clients are purchased from reliable nurseries that handle
material grown north of mid Indiana, so that they are accustomed
to winter.
2. We try
to alert our customers to any insect or disease problems that
a particular plant may experience and assist in the timing of
preventative treatments whenever possible. For insect or disease
problems that arise during the season we advise on the most appropriate
treatment and timing of application to have the maximum results
for the plant.
3. We try
to make sure our clients know how to handle both container and
burlap balled plants, especially plants that may be root bound
in the pot when they come.
1. We recommend
that all trees, shrubs and perennials have clean compost mixed
in with the backfill of the soil on site at planting
time. For groundcover and annual beds we recommend 1” of
compost topping over the soil bed prior to planting.
2. We also
recommend that each plant, large or small, is fed
with root stimulator or blossom booster at the time
of planting.
3. If a plant
would benefit from special additives
to lower or raise the ph of the soil at the time of planting we
will make sure clients have this information as well.
1. New Vistas
often recommends the use of a weed barrier
fabric on landscape beds where shrubs and trees are
planted. Our favorite is “Weed X” which is a composite
material with three layers bonded together to work at preventing
weeds from rooting through from the top or growing through from
the bottom.
2. Perennial
plantings, on the other hand seem to perform best without a barrier
fabric, allowing plants to broaden their clump size without being
choked by weed barrier or being forced to root in the mulch on
top of the barrier. However, we do have clients who really want
weed barrier in the perennial beds and so the design for those
perennials gardens has more space between each plant. Over time,
clients may need to widen the openings in the barrier as the perennial
clumps widen.
3. We recommend
an edging material to keep grass from creeping into landscaping
beds. Our designer will discuss many options including some edgers
that stand up above the grass several inches and some that are
only ½” above the grass and can serve as a mowing
strip. If a black vinyl edging is desired, we recommend the black
diamond professional grade vinyl edging because it
has one of the highest ratings of UV light stability for long
lasting performance. It also has a v-groove that is staked in
place to avoid heaving with the freezing and thawing of ground
in the winter, and connectors that help to prevent ends from moving
apart.
4. Mulching
landscaping beds is definitely recommended by New Vistas. Whether
the mulch be stone or wood is often a customer preference.
4a. If stone
is desired, designer, Judy De Pue can assist with a choice that
will have the right weight for easy care where lots of leaves
fall, as well the best coloring to coordinate with the home
and plantings. She can also recommend the depth of the stone
depending on its size and the application.
4b. When
wood mulch is desired there are several options. The shredded
types do less moving out of the bed where they are put. Of the
colored varieties, New Vistas recommends a darker color so as
not to compete with the coloring in the plant material. The
“chocolate” coloration seems to look the most natural
over time as it fades. Beware of the recently shredded tree
and shrub cuttings as the piles are often still “steaming”
when they are delivered and the decomposition process will rob
the soil of nitrogen, causing plants to suffer.
4c. If the
wood mulch is to go over weed barrier, New Vistas recommends
the use of a professional weight of cypress
mulch because it is the longest lasting of all wood
mulches. This is especially important because a fast decomposing
mulch will turn to dirt on top of the weed barrier. As new mulch
is added to help prevent weed growth the depth of material on
top of the barrier fabric increases. Unless this decomposed
mulch is shoveled off the barrier every three to four years,
the roots of the plants will become so buried that they will
not get the oxygen they need to stay healthy.
4d. Shrubs
and trees receive a 3” deep covering of wood
mulch (except right up near the bark at the base where the mulch
should not touch to allow the bark to breath). Perennials
are given a 2” covering around their bases.
1” is usually best on annual and groundcover beds.
5. Trees out
in the lawn which do not have circles of edging around them do
well with a bulk wood mulch put down 3” deep in 5’
or 8’ diameter circles depending on the ball size of the
tree at planting time or the spread of an evergreen tree's lower
branches.
6. Since a
tree develops stronger roots when it is not staked, only those
trees that shift after planting, e.g. from a strong windstorm,
and need this support, will be staked. (When trees are dug with
big enough root balls, they rarely need staking.)
7. Plant
care instructions are given to customers verbally,
or can be purchased in written form for a nominal fee. Tips are
given on watering, trimming, care of blossoms, and possible disease
or insect problems to watch out for as well as how to treat them.